My R1S Bolt Backed Up: Hoping to find a solution

Vincent · 2025-01-10T19:33:15+00:00

A friend needed to support his son who would be running a 'very cold' marathon on Sunday while rucking a 30 pound pack. The outside temps will be around 15F-20F the whole time. The location of the race is nowhere close to any L2 chargers, but he's not worried about driving distance to or from the race - it is 50 miles away from his house. He says he will be sitting in his ruck with his laptop and watching his live track+Garmin inReach data for the duration of the race (about 4 hours). He thought about taking his Honda EB2800i gasoline powered generator, if he can use the level 1 EVSE attached to the generator and keep the truck running with full heat + power - without really consuming much of the truck's main battery? He feels it's super dorky to have a gas generator running while attached to a Rivian in the woods, just so he can stay warm, but don't know if it would work ok this way and 'preserve' the main battery so he doesn't need to worry about driving range when we wants to head home. He talked to me about it and I told him the simple answer is NO. I tested this theory the other night when I was plugged into a 5.9kW charger. To maintain the interior amenities (interior and exterior lights, radio, heater, seat heaters), it took almost all of the charge. I charged for 15 minutes, it delivered 1.6kW, and the truck consumed 1.4kW, delivering only 0.2kW to the truck battery. Told him he would be using a laptop at another 200ish watts. The little trickle charger charges at 1.4kW on a good day, 1.2kW is normal for me. You can slow the bleed, but you cant stop it. My advise to him was for him to charge it up to 100% at home, and roll the dice is what I would do.

Rivian Mom

Active Wheeler

Dec 30, 2024

My R1S is what I use for almost all city/daily driving. Leaving the mall last week, the car started making an awful sound, and I could feel a rubbing and the car fighting against me. The sound was like metal rubbing on metal, and this is what I ended up finding.

Attention to screw at "12 o'clock." At first, I didn't know what it was. Later on, I found out it's a "torque to yield" bolt, and they are usually minimum bolts. How did this screw come loose?

My initial thought was to jack the car up and tighten it, but this seemed like a major problem. Heard they're aluminum bolts, and most of them can be torqued twice before they need to be replaced. It's hard to tell from the picture, but a friend said it's an aluminum bolt, and since the head is partially rounded, I'd swap it out for sure.

Told me it's probably just a case of the bolt not being torqued to spec when the vehicle was assembled. Not good, but also not disastrous since there are two more bolts that hold that CV joint into the hub. Personally, I'd get a new bolt, install it, and check that all the other ones are torqued to spec.

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